I started the day with a hearty breakfast at the Masoba Soba guesthouse. There was a short ride to the Lesotho Border control. The formalities were completed fast. The one border post official had a short exchange of pleasentries in German with me 🙂 . As I started down I passed the, apparently, highest pub in africa. Actually I would think the pub at Masoba Soba is higher. The road down the pass looks quite impressive and it is respected by the 4 wheeled vehicle community. As I started down on my bike I found it quite a pleasant ride. I can imagine if it is snow/ice covered or very wet that it would be a little challenging but dry it is an easy ride down.
Along the way there were some dassies and at one point a troop of baboons who quickly cleared the road for me to pass. The vehicles travelling up the pass have right of way so I stopped or gave way to a couple of vehicles crawling up the hill in low 4X4 gear. As there had been quite a some rain in the previous days there were a couple of places where streams crossed the road. One of the streams was quite deep and I got wet to just below my knees. It was remarkable how quickly it warmed up as I got closer to the bottom.
Along the way down I stopped a number of time to take a look back at the stunning mountain panorama I was leaving behind.
At the base of the pass is the South African Border control where the checks were completed just as quickly as at the top.
In the parking at the bottom I changed into dry “clean” clothes and removed the bags from my bike to to wait for Annemarie, Irene and Debbie who were coming to pick me up.
While I was waiting a number of safari type vehicles taking tourists up to the exorbatently expensive “Highest” pub in africa. I suppose the views from the pub are quite impressive.
After a short while my family arrived to pick me up and mark the end of 8 days of wonderful albeit strenuous days in Lesotho.
I once again got off to a early start, at sunrise, from the Mantsebo Guesthouse after a good night sleep. I met a very nice American couple with their South African guide at dinner the previous evening. The guesthouse was very nice and as it was not in the centre of town quite peaceful. This was the first night where I did not bring the bike into the room.
It was a short ride to the top of the hill to the Sani Pass intersection. On the way up I need to stop to check something. When I looked back there was a magnificent sunrise. Sometimes it pays to not be focused on our targets and slow down, look back and see what is behind us, it can be very motivating 🙂 .
The previous night I had had a light, but very good, lentil soup and bread dinner. As I left before breakfast also did not eat anything. I noticed that the little container shops were closed, then I realised it was Sunday and I would not be able to buy anything to eat. I had one energy bar left to get to my days target of 46km and 1300m ascent.
The road was tarred the whole way. Initially it was mainly downhill with short ascents. It soon switched to uphill with short descents and then to a very long and gruelling uphill with very steep climbs of 1:6 (17%). The route followed the Sehonghong River valley with spectacular views on both sides. There were numerous cascading waterfalls of various sizes on both sides. On the valley slopes there were some sheep and cattle herds with their shepperds.
I soon started to battle up the hills pushing the steeper sections. Near the top I heard a vehicle approaching and slowing down when it was almost next to me I heard shouts of encouragement, and realised it was the american couple that I met the day before. I explained in very few words that if I stopped I would not be able to start again. I must have been above 3000m and realise now that it was the altitude and not only my condition that was making me feel so out of breath.
hortly before the summit I saw a bearded vulture flying overhead, below it there was a herd of sheep and it followed as they moved away from the road.
I was very pleased to reach the top at 3240m above sea level. I cycled to the “photo point” and saw there was a wonderful couple, from Leribe, that I fleeting met the guesthouse the previous afternoon. We had a long chat and took some photos which we exchanged. The best parts of the trip was not only the landscape but also the wonderful people that I met along the way. I had more intense contact with the locals in Lesotho then any other traverse that I made.
After a short rest I started my descent. The excellent, and luckily, tarred road wound its way down with sections of 17% descent. I was a little worried about my brakes and managed to keep my top speed below 80 km/h. All of a sudden I had energy again and had no problem cycling up the short ascents as I had dropped to below 3000m asl. I did not realise it at the time that it was the altitude that gave me my energy back.
The road leveled out and soon arrived at Masoba Soba Guesthouse at 12:00. I chcked in and the first thing that I said is can I eat something, I was starving having only eat one Chimpazee Crunchy Peanut Energy bar, drank 500ml of Isotonic drink and numerous litres of water. The fish and chips really went down well.
Masoba Soba Guesthouse was basic but all that I needed: good food, hot water, a comfortable warm bed and some electricity. There were a couple of sheppards and a young man who worked at the guest house came accross to where I was checking my bike. I was surprised at how good all of their english was. The young man who worked at the guesthouse plucked up the courage to as if he could ride my bike. He could ride but you could see he was a novice. Later on I found some dry rations in my pack and gave them to one of the shepperds explaining how to prepare them.
I then put new brake pads on my front brakes in preperation for the Sani Pass descent the next morning.
The taxi picked me up at my Guesthouse at about 4.45. We the drove back and forward through town looking for the other people that he was taking. Eventually we got off to the trip. The road was not much better than the trails I had been riding the previous days. The driver was excellent. At one stage we got a bit stuck in mud which caused the spare tyre to come off its mounting. He put it in the roof and tied it on with a piece of rope from the locals. Going down a very steep hill the spare tyre came loose. Luckily it rolled to the left as to the right was a drop of about 300 m. It behaved for the rest of the trip.
The trip took more than 5 hours for the 105 km that meant an average of 21km/h. That poor guy does the trip there and back every day. My rough calculation is they turnover about €100 per trip, it can’t be worth it.
In Mokhotlong I found a wonderful guesthose, Mant’sebo Guesthouse.
I keep needing to repeat myself, the day greeted me with spectacular sunrise and views, as well as a shooting star. I got off to an early start. All the teachers were still asleep so I did not have the opportunity to say goodbye. However not far from the school I met an old man and had a chat with him. He knew the school and seemed to have regular contact and said he would pass on the message to them. Once again it was similar to the previous day fighting mud patches that totally clogged up my wheels. I kept having to free them so they could turn. Eventually there were fewer mud patches but more rocky climbs. I now understand why some people thought that the wheel was not necessary. The job of horsemen is secured they are the only ones that can move efficiently here. I was trying to push my bike up one of the stoney hills, a shepherd came to me and insisted that I carry my bike and not push it. He was 100% right, it was much easier.
I arrived at a little stream and decided to clean my bike and myself. This was a good idea.
Eventually I got onto a plateaux and could make good progress to Mantsonyane. There was a cape vulture flying on the ridge of the plateaux, it felt so close. I stopped and watched it for a while.
I arrived in Ha Nyane after a long downhill. I was supprised at the size of the Cathedral. I was greeted by hundreds of school children begging for sweet’s. They even pulled on my handle bars.
Ha Nyane was my planned stop to go to Thaba Tseka on trails. I decided against this. The new plan was to get a ride from Mantsonyane to Thaba Tseka.
After a reasonable 8 km ride I arrived in Mantsonyane. While looking for the taxi rank I found a car wash at the river. I asked if he could wash my bike, unfortunately he was fully booked 😊. He helped me get a ride with a man in a twin cab pickup. It was a pleasant trip. I am sure the guy regretted agreeing to take this smelly old white man 🙂. When we arrived in Thaba Tseka he helped me find a taxi to Mokhotlong. However the taxi would be around 4.30 am the next morning. I cycled out of town to an accommodation called The Clan. The did not have anything free but found me a place in town.
Once again lovely place and friendly helpful staff. I got a bucket of water to was my bike. The receptionist and her friend came and helped.
The day started early at sunrise as there was rain predicted for 11.00. It was another wonderful sunrise. It was a little of a challenge to get onto the correct path. The path I am following is the delivery trail that is used by horsemen with donkeys that take the shopping orders to the remote villages. They tend to generally use the same trail but each horseman has some deviations. The paths are quite bumpy caused by the hooves of the pack animals. Once I was on the path it was a tough climb, once at the top it was easier going. At about 8.00 I stopped for my packed breakfast from the lodge at a little stream. After breakfast there was a short climb to a small settlement. There I met a man who had said a while back there was another man that came this route on his bicycle, I assume it was Logan Watts. At the top of the hill you could see the Senqunyane with a foot bridge. The trail was steep and badly damaged by the rain. It was a combination of course gravel and all sizes of boulders mostly between tennis and football size. Unfortunately I tried to ride it and ended up taking a fall and grazed my leg. Eventually I reached the bottom and was ambushed by a hoard of children. Three teenaged boys offered to push my bike up the hill. I was very grateful as when we got to the top I was exhausted.
At the next village the locals showed me the route. I think the saw how tired I was and offered me a place to stay. As it was only 11.00 I declined as I needed to get at least half way. When I was half way up the hillside it started to rain and thunder so I set up to make lunch under some bushes.
After the storm calmed down an continued up. I knew I was not going to make Mantsonyane so I started to look for a place to stay. The first settlement I came to was unusual there was an old lady, she said money. I tried to explain I am looking for a shelter but even the young people that gathered around appeared not to understand. I then sent a voice whatsapp to a man I met to ask if he could explain that I am looking for shelter. All of a sudden on of the young people said there was nothing and I should try the school at top of the hill.
After a short climb through a very muddy slope, with the help of two shepherds I got to the small school. One of the teachers met me and kindly offered one of the classrooms. They even brought me a basin with warm water to wash in. I made an appropriate donation. I realised I am a bit old for sleeping on an air mattress on a concrete floor. I got enough sleep and rest to start the next day. On the way back from washing at the water tank I looked up and saw a shooting star, immediately it brought a smile to my face and motivation to tackle the trip to Mantsonyane.
I decided to take a bit of a rest today I asked Annemarie and Irene if they could pick me up about 10 km from where I stayed. The sunrise shone directly into my door. There was a big placid dog sleeping by my door and the chickens kept threatening to come into the room. After a quick trek ‘n eat muesli I started off crossing the Senqu and climbed the 340m to the meeting point. Once again with spectacular scenery and friendly people.
After checking in to Semonkong Lodge we had lunch and then took a drive to the Maletsunyane Falls. It is very impressive. There is a very big colony of Cape vultures that nest on the cliffs.
Quite an interesting day. It started off cool but not uncomfortable. The scenery was spectacular. Most of the day I had the road to myself. The peace and quiet is lovely. The problem with the scenery you want to stop all the time. I had a lovely lunch on the bank of the Senqu (Orange) river. I tried out the Rhino dung fuel to boil the water for the dehydrated meal.
After lunch a man in a Blue Ribbon bread truck drove next me and had a chat, about half an hour later he came back and we had a long chat and took some photos.
About 16 km from my days destination Chief Phafoli coincidentally came past and also stopped for a chat.
It is amazing how friendly and helpful everyone is. About 7 km from the destination it started to pour with rain with thunder and lightning. I went into a small roadside shop made out of Corrugated Iron sheets, well the people insisted that I wait there until the most was over.
My accommodation tonight is quite rustic. The bathroom is a bowl on top of the cupboard, there is a paraffin lamp for light and the toilet is a long drop on the property. Everything is comfortable and all that I need.
On my way to Matatiele I lost my cell phone holder and realise I left my fleece jacket in Durban. Luckily today was easy navigating so it didn’t impact the ride.
The day started a the Resthaven Guest House in Matatiele. The hosts Philip & Elrita were tremendous. Philip was always giving us tips on the trip from his vast knowledge of Lesotho and Elrita fed us until we almost popped with excellent home style meals.
I managed to get going shortly after 8.00. The first section on tar with a mild gradient. The biggest challenge was the traffic, although reasonably quiet I was nervous and did not want to take risks so whenever there was risky sections I rode on the gravel next to the road. I think I was over cautious. Soon I was on dirt roads and the I had the advantage my bike is better equipped for it then any car.
It was very impressive to see the Maluti Mountains in coming closer all the time. The temperature was a bit of a killer the average was 30 degree Celcius with a high of 38.
All the vehicles greeted and hooted. About 3 km from the Border the SA Border staff stopped to have a chat completely disregarding the two following vehicles which had to wait.
The border process is went smoothly. At the border I had about 10 min chat with a man from Claremont who want’s to start a start up 3d printing glasses frames. Annemarie and Irene saw me in the distance approaching the border so they waited but were surprised how long the process took by me 😊.
In Qachas nek i managed to get a sim and withdraw money so now I am prepared for Lesotho. The temperature has dropped quite seriously and it was quite cool this afternoon.
All in all it was a very enjoyable 8 Days. I am so grateful that I am able to do something like this.
I met a number of interesting people and had long, sometimes philosophical, chats with them. Most were positive, but I spoke my mind to a couple. The places where I / we stayed were very different and interesting as well. Ranging from the Sardine can beds in the Grindelwald Hostel to a luxurious Bed and Breakfast with views of the Matterhorn from the bed.
The trip home started with a short walk down to the church in Törbel to catch the bus to Stalden-Saas Station. We had a short stop in Visp where we caught the train to Bern. In Bern we had the opportunity to have a very nice lunch at a vegetarian restaurant next to the station. The train to Frankfurt was a little delayed but we made our connection to home. We arrived very relaxed at home.
It is so different from the normal car drive holiday. We were able to have a just as enjoyable holiday without a car. Yes we had some challenges with delays and train cancellations but these did not have any real impact on the holiday.
The final stage. The day started with an easy wind down the road to Milbach. In contrast to the other days the climb from Milbach to Zermatt was a gentle climb of 645m over around 30km. Most of the ride was on cycling paths and mountain bike single trails. The single trails were very rocky and quite difficult to ride, even in the dry. The views of Matterhorn were great. Today I was traveling lighter as I left my saddle bag in the accommodation. There were quite a few section that had a steep 30m an more drops next to the path. I felt that this route was more dangerous than the Gemmi Pass path (The Wall). If your fall 30m or 500m the end result is the same and Gemmi Pass at least had catch ropes. All in all I rode/pushed both trails with the respect they deserved.
The trail passes Air Zermatt on the outskirts of Zermatt. As I arrived a Helicopter took off. Then minutes later the next took off. Then I saw Tourists being taken to the next one. I then realised it was sight seeing flights. I find this very ironic as Zermatt is a motor vehicle free town and all the utility vehicles are electric. The helicopters then blast all their fumes into the atmosphere to compensate.
As I arrived in the town of Zermatt there were hundreds of people milling about. After 6 days of being alone on the trail / road this was a bit of a culture shock. I had to concentrate to look at the beauty of the town behind the mob. I cycled through the town and found a fountain where I could fill up my water and cool down.
